Little si to the 95th degree

Dom battles through the first crux of Technorigine(5.12c)

It's not really 'officially' summer unless you spend all day at Little si in 85-95 degree weather. It was an absolute ghost town as my friends and I arrived around 2:00. Besides me it was Jimmy, Lisa, Laura, and Dom. Were we out of our minds? Had we all let the heat drive us to the edge of sanity? Or, were we just rock starved crushing machines driven by a desire embedded so deeply in all of us that we ignore 'sub-prime' conditions in favor of pursuing a love that envelops our souls and pushes us forward into the unknown rocky abyss.


Dom and Laura watch as Lisa works Techno.

The warm ups were plentiful, and the hike in was not as bad as I thought it would be. Surrounded by trees, the environment at World Wall is less affected by the heat , due to evapotranspiration, than if it was surrounded by a barren wasteland. Yet, even in the shade the first few routes, Abo and Mega definitely could have felt better. I hadn't done Mega in a while and man is that route a gem. Often overlooked but wildly entertaining the steep climbing on incut jugs leads to a delicate sequence at the top and makes for a very decent warm up (even though we were all plenty warm just stepping out of the car in the parking lot).
While Lisa, Jimmy, and I all had go's on Sweet Tooth Dom flew up Techno and contemplated running out the extension Extendorigine, but opted out in favor of coming back with some draws on his next go.
Sweet Tooth is a terrible climb with one sort of fun move and terribly hard and reachy finishing sequence. No sends on that one. I climbed up Psycho with my camera and snapped osme shots of Lisa attempting the love of her life Propaganda.









Lisa made some great progress on Propaganda. She is going to send very soon. Jimmy also is hot on the trail of a send on Propaganda and it may be a race to the top between these two. I decided not to try Propaganda despite Lisa's car salesman pitches and instead I just tried to climb as high on the wall as I could possibly go. This resulted in me one hanging Psychosomatic and then getting into the opening sequence of the crux on Flatliner. Super sick route!! A pure inspirational jolt to my system to want to improve and get stronger just to climb this amazing line. The rock up there is exquisite and the movement is great, plus being very, very high and doing bouldery moves on a rope is something that always tickles my fancy. Jimmy linked all the way to the opening sequence of the crux before having to rest, and even did a couple of the moves in the crux. The only thing is that we have no clue what awaits us guarding the chains; could be jugs, could be heinous slopers. We will just have to find out next time.

Laura, who has flown under the radar in previous years and just revealed to us her supreme crushing power by ticking many of her long term projects lately, has once again sleighed another Little si giant, Aborigine!! Last time she fell just short of the vic jug, but with some good beta (you can thank me later), and a couple of rehersal go's, she sacked up and sent!! Excellent effort Laura!
Now it's either on to Rainy Day for her, or seeking out the next level, a 5.11c. I think she should throw caution to the wind and go for Rainy Day, she's already done all the moves.

We all wound down with some good warm downs. I found a better sequence for Techno (finding better sequences lately seems to be a growing trend in my life), Lisa got up Mega, Laura got up Psycho, and Dom got up Propaganda. All in all it was a fantastic day of climbing and we had the crag to ourselves all day; probably because noone else is stupid enough (stupid like a fox!) to come to Little si in these temps, but we made it RAIN!!


Jimmy on Propaganda


Lisa hanging out on the Abo jugs before launching into Techno.

65 Degrees North: ‘Finland’s Ruining My Socks!’

65 Degrees North: ‘Finland’s Ruining My Socks!’

Taking your shoes off indoors is just so obvious a custom in Finland that nobody seems to question it at all. ‘Why would you keep your shoes indoors?’ asks Riitta, 29, an Oulu teacher. ‘It’s disgusting. I think that we Finns like to keep our houses clean.’
‘I wouldn’t wear my shoes in house,’ comments Katariina, 29, also a teacher. ‘And I definitely wouldn’t wear them in somebody else’s house. I never really thought about it. But you don’t want to bring dirt from outside inside.’

This article has some interesting discussion about how old the custom of removing shoes in Finnish homes is.

Shoes Off At A Party?

re-post

There are some people who are strict about no-shoes in their homes who make an exception for parties. They feel that parties are an occasion when people expect to dress up and this must include shoes. I disagree with their view. I think it is perfectly reasonable to require shoes to be removed for a party.

In Canada and Scandinavia, it is common for people to attend formal parties with a special set of party shoes that are not worn outdoors. This is not really feasible in the UK. I doubt that many British folks have shoes that are never worn oudoors, unless they keep a pair of sneakers to go to the gym. And if those formal party shoes have high-heels, they are unacceptable anyway.

Some people say that part of a party is clearing up afterwards, so you should not make a fuss about mess from people's shoes. This seems a little silly to my mind. People will make more than enough mess at a party without them bringing in dirt on their shoes. There will be plenty of spilled wine and crumbs ground into the carpet without chewing gum and dog dirt from peoples' shoes as well. Also the main party season in the West is Christmas and New Year, when there will be plenty of rain and snow (maybe not snow in England, but plenty of rain). The party season is a wet season.

Some argue that people will feel silly and uncomfortable at a party without their shoes. It is true that people might find it a little odd. But they will probably feel more comfortable for having removed their shoes. If it is made clear in the invitation that shoes willl need to be removed, then it will not come as a shock. Furthermore, if there is alcohol at the party, then most people will be feeling more relaxed.

The main argument levelled against shoes-off at parties is that people dress up for parties. A lot of people, particularly women, will chose their outfits very carefully and they the choice of shoes is part of that selction. For them, a party is an occasion to show off their good taste. They would not want to combine their cocktail dresses with barefeet.

In response I would say that parties are hardly the only occasions for dressing up. Ladies can show off their fancy shoes in restaurants or at the races. Not all parties are such formal occasions. If a party is a smart-casual event, it is actually quite rude to dress up more smartly than other guests.

The host sets the theme of a party. If it is meant to be a fancy dress party, then you should make the effort to find a costume or stay home. If it is an informal party, leave the suit or cocktail dress at home. If it is a no-shoes party, leave the kitten heels at the door.

I keep making this point, but I will make it again: it is best that guests know in advance that shoe-removal is required. If you are printing fancy invitations, make it known there (with some clip-art maybe?). If people know that they will have to take their shoes off, it will not come as a shock and they can plan their outfit with this in mind. They can bring some nice slippers that complement their outfit if they want and they can avoid long trousers that only look right when worn with high heels.

There is the question of whether it is really possible to hold a formal party while people are shoeless. It may be difficult in the West to maintain an air of formality when everybody is without their shoes, but is that really such a bad thing? Is it not better to be relaxed at a party? Certainly, the host and guests can make an effort to keep the party formal. Men can look reasonably smart by combining respectable slippers with their suits and women can look pretty elegant in stocking feet. So all is not lost. If shoes-off in homes becomes more common, shoe-lessnes will probably become less associated with being casual and informal.

There are some people who will certainly be far more happy and comfortable to party without their shoes on. As I argued in a previous post, it is not simply a matter of giving these people the choice. At a shoes-on party, those who take it upon themselves to remove their shoes are likely to get their feet squashed and to have to walk on a soggy carpet. Shoes-off for all guests makes it easier for those who want to take their shoes off.

The Fire Burns Within

Dom and Jimmy


Laura

One day spent at Little si, and two spent in Tieton. Why not? My weekend was looking jam-packed with climbing. I would share this trip with three great friends and outdoor enthusiasts Dom, Laura, and Jimmy. We drove aimlessly (at least for the first hour) before finally realizing we had missed the exit for highway twelve and had to back track. We wrote down the proper exit number this time so all misguidance’s and wayward run downs could be avoided in future trips. It was near 2:30 in the afternoon when we pitched our tents in the free camping area and sought out the Oasis, our first stop. The shade was a welcome break from the weight of the sun but as you climbed higher it became inescapable. Warm-ups were .10c, .10d, .11a, and then onto the coolest looking .12a around. I forget the name (probably because I didn’t send) but it was an amazing route. The first thirty feet were brilliant! Face climbing on small to medium edges with a multitude of foot options and great movement. Then steeper climbing on good holds with short cruxy sections that had pronounced crimper/slimper sequences. It was all good fun! Dom came close to the OS, I came really close to the flash, and Jimmy bagged the flash but not without the uncovering of a jug that turned the top crux into a not so much crux. It was a great route, I can’t wait to go back.

We ended the day in the shade once again at Dream Wall, a crag we had not been to on previous trips. It was blocky and junky looking but the first climb I got on was a really fun .10a that was long and juggy. Next I tried a .10c that was rather awkward and did not climb so well, and by the time Jimmy got down from his go we were all ready to leave. It was getting late anyway and we needed to collect firewood. Lucky for us the wood was in great abundance a mere 20 yards from our campsite. We stacked the logs high and wide. By the time we were done breaking them down and stacking them we had a pile at least three feet by four feet, it was very comforting. We ended up burning the whole pile, including a mama log and stayed up until one watching the blaze, chattering away, and teaching Dom the finer intricacies of ‘shot-gunning’.

It was a pleasant night’s sleep and we woke to sun and a full day of climbing at The Cave area. There were a lot of highlights! Jimmy started out strong with an onsight of Elixir (5.12a), flashed a few .11b/c/d’s, and polished the crag off by flashing the hardest thing there, a .12c arête!! It was a great weekend for Jimmy, three days on and non-stop climbing the whole time; I might have to start calling him ‘the machine’. Dom also had a strong showing with several .11b/c flashes/OS’s as well as flashing the .12c arête too!! I was surrounded by animals!! I could not manage to attend this power packed party as I flailed on several routes and yielded to the lactic acid and sheer terror that pulsated throughout my body. But, I have this to say: The Cave is definitely one of the best crags in Tieton. It has three very different areas all side by side with three very different styles of climbing, rock quality, and aesthetics. The .12c arête is a total gem with great movement and I am super psyched to come back for the send. We were all beaten up by the end of the day and ready for some QB back in Oly’.

Dom starting the long journey on his flash of Trigger Finger (5.12c)












What a weekend! My friends are amazing!! So psyched for more of these kinds of trips to come over the next three months. I start part time in a couple of weeks and I’m ready for a little R&R and skin shredding!! Now it’s time for the last week of the world cup, a lot of really hot weather, and hopefully a few Exit outings this weekend. Hurry up and get yourself out here Nick!!


The End!!

Upstairs Downstairs

re-post

Some people have a rule in their house that people may keep their shoes on downstairs, but not upstairs. In a similar manner some people require only overnight guests to remove their shoes.

I understand that the upstairs is a more intimate part of the house and the place where sleeping is done (so a natural place to keep allergy-free). However, I really do not see the need to only go half-way on the shoes-off policy. Who wants a clean carpet upstairs and a dirty one downstairs? Besides most peoples' children will be playing as often on the floors downstairs as the floors upstairs.

It seems much more simpler and straightforward to have the whole house shoe-free.

New Beta

Lisa staring down the barrel of the last move on Hanging Out to Dry (5.12b) at the old World Wall.

Just finished watching Germany stomp Argentina into the ground, 4 to nil (zip, nada, nothing, zero!). Relaxing in front of the glow of my lap top before heading out to Tieton for a couple days. A lot has happened in the last few weeks so here is the short and dirty version.


Mika Peterson, great friend, strong member of the Oly' climbing community, had to say goodbye to all of the people he has had a profound impact on here to go back to his home country Tanzania, Africa. Mika was an intensely positive person with a great outlook on life and I'm really proud to have known him and be able to nurture his climbing ability while he was here. On the various trips to World Wall One Mika went from redpointing .10c to bagging his first .12a! Have a great year Mika and I'm psyched to reunite someday in Africa, maybe a Rocklands trip??





Had a good weekend in Seattle where I said goodbye to more good friends Jenny and Jason who are off to live in Europe for two years. Good luck guys! I think I remember hearing about some good craigs in Europe somewhere??


Most recently, Jimmy has sent a long time nemesis at WW1 Californicator!! Great job Jimmy! And even more recently, as of yesterday Jimmy, Lisa, Kevin and I returned to World Wall where Jimmy had a great day repeating some hard classics, Techno, Psychosomatic, Hanging Out to Dry, polishing the crux on Chronic off, and winding down with Rainy Day. Lisa and I have both made good progress on Californicator. I feel really psyched on this project right now and yesterday I made leaps and bounds in refining my beta and I'm confident it will go this summer. Here are some shots of Lisa on Hanging Out to Dry.

Teenage Memory

I remember when I was 15 or 16 being invited to a barbecue at the home of a guy who was about 17. After we had been in the garden for quite a while, it started to rain and we needed to go in the house.

The boy whose home it was asked us to take our shoes off when we went in. His parents did not have a shoes-off rule and I had visited quite a few times and kept my shoes on. Presumably he was under instructions from his parents that his guests were to take their shoes off if they went inside.

There was a girl there who had come with a friend that she was staying with overnight. She protested at being asked to remove her shoes because she was not wearing socks. Back in the mid-nineties, it was fairly fashionable to wear sneakers without socks. The boy insisted that she needed to take her shoes off. However, she refused. Her friend went into the house barefoot and made some quick goodbyes and then they left and returned to her house.

What would have happened if the house of the girl's friend was further away and they were reliant on being picked up at a certain time? Would she have stayed outside or would she have taken her shoes off? I suppose the host could have offered her some socks.

At the time, I took the moral of the story to be that if you wear sneakers without socks, you must be prepared to be barefoot. You never knew when you might have to take your shoes off.

These days people don't seem to wear sneakers without socks so much; they wear those ridiculous socks that leave the ankles bare but which are still visible. Teenage girls at a party would probably be wearing those flat ballet pumps without socks, unless it was winter and they wearing those Ugg boots. Fashions have changed an awful lot.

Of course, if you are wearing sneakers without socks, your feet are more likely to smell. If you get asked to remove them in somebody's home, the best thing to do is to ask if you can be excused and wash your feet in the bathroom.