Leavenworth 9.11

Big Chicken

Name this problem.

Yowza! Bouldering is hard, no? Well, at least grabbing sharp crystals and bearing down on them with all your might is hard (read: PAINFUL).
It has been two years since I have been in Squamish due to unforeseen border crossing requirements that took place in 2009, but I'm BACK! I mean, I just GOT back from a fabulous trip to the almighty Squaw. And oh how nothing has changed. I mean it, NOTHING has changed, except well, I'm a little fatter, balder, and weaker. But all that aside, it was a really nice three days filled with random social encounters, great weather, sketchy landings, and TONS of finger scraping granite slopers and crimpers.
This is the first time I have been to Squamish without at least 5 or 6 people in tow. Instead it was just me and Jimmy. It kind of felt like a business trip. We were there to 'take care of business', the first of which was a campsite. So far our mission was a failure, so we headed for the boulders instead. Black dyke, sloppy poppy, great for the warming up of forearms and fingers. Next, ATD!! Everything so far felt coated in a nice layer of moist chalk and as I shakily humped myself up the heinous mantle of ATD and walked down from the top out huffing and puffing I knew the next two days were going to be very difficult. So I basically stood back and made sure Jimmy didn't kill himself topping out everything he got on.
Jimmy went on a little Rampage of his own. Over the three days we were there he killed a handful of classics like Squealing Pork, Gibb's Cave, Worm World Cave, ATD, and literally finished the trip by sending Big Chicken. Oh yeah, as a side note we also made a short morning trip out to the Sport Temple where he managed a .13a second go. I would like to forget about my performance on the ropes that morning.
All in all it was a great trip! And, I broke down and bought the shiny new guidebook, which BTW is one of the best purchases I have made. Tons of new problems, updates to old problems, and good general info.
Now, time for some pictures:

Resurrection(V.9)


Resurrection(V.9)


Ride the Lightning(V.8)


The story about the camping goes something like this:
We were about to shell out $30 for ONE night at Klahanie falls when we were approached by a woman who identified us as climbers and offered us a spot at her site where she had her trailer and would be staying for the month. Jen was a climber as well and a very gracious host, down to earth and very fond of Rockband. We ended up paying her $20 for two nights and almost got arrested while enjoying a fire on our second night, completely oblivious to the fact that Squamish was under a very strict burn ban (sorry Canada). But it was a great deal, we enjoyed the toilets, hot water, and the picnic table that cane with the site, and even got to hang out in her trailer one night. Thanks Jen!!


Exactly how fast is this in miles per hour?


Jimmy takes a stroll down Sesame Street(V.9)



Okay, I didn't exactly get any pictures of actual sends but I will be posting a video soon of Jimmy's redpoint of Big Chicken(V.10). Check here soon.
And, we'll be headed back for round two next week. Hope to see you guys out there!

Newhalem for a Day!

Jimmy pulling the roof on OSX(5.13a)

Yesterday a small group of us made it out to a new crag located in the far north east of Washington and right inside of the little (understatement) town of Newhalem. Jimmy and Lisa (my adopted little brother and sister) accompanied me the three and half hour journey. This crag is located literally right off the side of highway 20 and is one of the coolest crags I've been to in a while. Sweeping grey walls of gneiss (which is very similar texturally to granite) striped by brown and black water streaks soared from the ground at our feet. The belay stations are amazing, flat ground, nice big leaf maples providing shade, no sketchy jump off points, and the routes are all protected extremely well. On our warm up of Luna (5.11a) Lisa put up 9 draws on a 45 foot route!!!!

Jimmy sticking the crux on OSX.


'12c for a Day'(5.12b)


'Shoe Phone'(5.12b)

The climbing is typically not very steep, instead trending towards mostly vertical to slabby or slightly overhung. The routes are mostly technical edging, with some dynamic movement, but it's a mixed bag to be honest. While I got shut down on everything except the warm up, Jimmy had another spectacular showing of his new found power endurance ticking a 5.13a second go and onsighting his first and second .12b's. I almost managed a flash and redpoint of 'shoe phone' (5.12b) but got shut down on the slab part (major disappointment) on my last go of the day. Oh well, I'll definitely be back!


Me on the bottom part of OSX.

Lisa had a good day as well but will have to come back for some of the twelves as well. She did have an extremely close flash attempt of '12c for a day' (5.12b) coming off just before the chains.
We climbed from noon till 8 and it never stopped raining all day, but we never got wet, and neither did the routes!

Lisa staring down the crux throw on OSX.


Negotiating the bulge, OSX.

I'll probably never day trip this area again, but there is a nice camp ground less than a mile away from the crag so I'm psyched to get back out here for a couple days next time.
It looks like it is back to the projects at Little si tomorrow and then maybe a break for four or five days. I'm enjoying part time right now, but am accomplishing very little on the rope (read nothing at ALL!!) so it's time to step back, clean out some of the clutter in my apartment, and re-gain some 'spiritual psych'.
I think the next crag we want to hit up is Equinox, so if anybody has a topo or some beta on how to get there drop me a line!!

New Beta

Lisa staring down the barrel of the last move on Hanging Out to Dry (5.12b) at the old World Wall.

Just finished watching Germany stomp Argentina into the ground, 4 to nil (zip, nada, nothing, zero!). Relaxing in front of the glow of my lap top before heading out to Tieton for a couple days. A lot has happened in the last few weeks so here is the short and dirty version.


Mika Peterson, great friend, strong member of the Oly' climbing community, had to say goodbye to all of the people he has had a profound impact on here to go back to his home country Tanzania, Africa. Mika was an intensely positive person with a great outlook on life and I'm really proud to have known him and be able to nurture his climbing ability while he was here. On the various trips to World Wall One Mika went from redpointing .10c to bagging his first .12a! Have a great year Mika and I'm psyched to reunite someday in Africa, maybe a Rocklands trip??





Had a good weekend in Seattle where I said goodbye to more good friends Jenny and Jason who are off to live in Europe for two years. Good luck guys! I think I remember hearing about some good craigs in Europe somewhere??


Most recently, Jimmy has sent a long time nemesis at WW1 Californicator!! Great job Jimmy! And even more recently, as of yesterday Jimmy, Lisa, Kevin and I returned to World Wall where Jimmy had a great day repeating some hard classics, Techno, Psychosomatic, Hanging Out to Dry, polishing the crux on Chronic off, and winding down with Rainy Day. Lisa and I have both made good progress on Californicator. I feel really psyched on this project right now and yesterday I made leaps and bounds in refining my beta and I'm confident it will go this summer. Here are some shots of Lisa on Hanging Out to Dry.

The Spokane Spectrum, A Story of 4 Worlds

Main Wall at Deep Creek

The past week has faded into my rearview mirror with some velocity. Starting out with high hopes and a long camping and climbing trip mentality has made the last 8 days somewhat of a highspeed blur. Me and my two loyal climbing companions(Laura and Dom, duh) headed out on Thursday of last week to explore the more mysterious side of our state and the many climbing destinations it holds. With day light burning we pulled into Spokane and the campsite there, can't remember the name, and had enough time to check out the nearby crag Deep Creek. It was an eye-full and we were all ready to come back the next day and crush. The routes looked long, vertical to slightly overhung on chipped and shiny black basalt. The whole crag was in a dried up riverbed with fine grained sand as a floor and the faint trickle of water in the back ground providing a very Zen atmosphere.

Our first day on the rock was a numbing experience. Literally the first route we did was so cold I couldn't feel my fingers from start to finish. We opted for more sunlight and headed to the main wall and then decided to come back and headed to the smallest wall in the canyon on the aptly named Mushroom Boulder.


Me belaying Dom up some .11b on the Mushroom boulder.

This wall had some short little routes from .11b to 5.9 to super overhung bouldery project. We spied an .11a that didn't look too tricky and I went for the OS. Now, getting shut down is one thing, but getting shut down so early on a long trip does wonders for your psyche, everyone should try it. The shortest route we had seen so far was kicking my ass. Not one, or two, but finally three tries later I clipped the chains and was soooo pumped from 15 feet of climbing that I was ready to throw in the towel. Laura gave some valiant efforts and was nominated at the end of the trip as the person coming closest to 'sending' without actually 'sending'. She was literally on the last hold bringing the rope up to clip the chains when she decided to keep this for an easy tick next trip. What can I say? The girl thinks ahead.
Oh yeah, and about Dom, well, he just flashes or OS's things, quite annoying really. After Dom tackled a heinous looking .11b to the right of the .11a doing everything but the right sequence and still sending we left Mushroom Boulder and headed to the longer and steeper routes on the Main Wall.
First up was some prime 'chilling time' where we milled about aimlessly occasionally staring up at some random route and chatting with the extremely friendly locals. After my wonderful start I finally got some balls and tried The Roach, a long and juggy looking .11a. The first part was easy 5.9 and then a small little crux going out right to steeper climbing on really good jugs. I enjoyed this climb right up until I started to get really pumped and out of the zone. But I still managed to clip chains. Laura was up next on TR and managed it with one hang, and well, we all know about Dom already. Flashed it!
After sending there was more milling about, until Dom picked out a pretty little .12a on the far left side of the main wall. Steep bouldery start leading to more steep crimpy climbing. Here are some pics, and I believe the name of this route was Being Inferior.







It was a pretty sweet OS and probably the hardest one I have seen Dom do. I was far too pumped just watching to give it a go, but I was inspired and hopped on one of the easier climbs at the crag but no less classic, Red Hair .11b. Such a fun climb and I didn't find it that hard, especially in the technical dihedral. Another OS was definitely helping the psych level and I was looking forward to climbing really hard. The day was a good gauge on where my head was and my fitness and I was slowly realizing that neither would lend themselves to hard OS's. I believe that this was the last climb of the day and we headed back to our lovely campsite.

The second day on we found ourselves at The Pit, another Deep Creek sector not quite as big as the Main Wall but just as long, if not longer and sustained. We got right to work bathing in the sun and warming our forearms on a long .10c that I found pretty hard. I was looking for all incut jugs the whole way and found only slopey flat holds that made me feel insecure.


Laura on a long and pumpy attempt of the .10c.

The next route was Pit Lizard and I had a terrible time climbing this classic line. I think I wandered too far and had to down climb at least two or three times; made a real mess of any conceivable rest or sequence, and finally came to the last jug a mere 5 feet from the chains and decided to fall off. It was epic.
We took a break from the longer routes yet again to find sheer climbing bliss on the shorter walls below the pit that had some pretty fun .10's and .9's.
The morning turned to afternoon and we found ourselves at the Main Wall yet again with noone in sight. I was ready to give a good OS attempt on a cool looking .12a called Naked Man, which was much in the style of the .12a Dom had done on the previous day. Steep and bouldery at the beginning with mostly good incut crimps and a huge jug rest in the middle. I fired off 2/3's of the route before hitting a wall. Literally. I jumped off with the bolt at my feet and came slamming back into the hard basalt. Oh well, it was a fun try and very good climb, I just couldn't finish it. Dom cleaned it up for me and I managed to snag a vid of him on it. (Coming soon)


Me on the beginning of Naked Man(5.12a)

The day ended in a little more frustration than it began. I recovered from my harrowing fall and after a few routes on the Mushroom boulder we were back at the Main Wall for the last climb of the day, a steep looking .11c called Overhangus. Again I fought with flat holds and a pretty hard bouldery start only to pop off just before the slab and a huge no hands rest. It was a really great route however and I look forward to getting back on it next time(a year from now maybe?).
More wood was collected and a nice fire was had by all.


Me taking my frustrations out on the wood, Grrrrrrrr!

Okay, that is a wrap for Deep Creek. Next up is Banks Lake. We drove a mere two hours to Grand Coulee where the granitic mecca of Banks Lake was lying in wait. Our timing could not have been more perfect, for as we pulled into the gravel drive of the campsite pulling in just behind us were our friends from Oly' who had planned to meet up with us on this very day. Erica, Sarah, Meagan, and Melody stumbled out of the car and greeted us with road trip enthusiasm. We pitched four pretty little tents all in a row and were climbing in no time.


The view from Highway Rock at Banks Lake.

A few 5.8 slab climbs later and I found myself growing antsy and wanting to step it up a notch. I spied a line of verticalness with awesome looking crimps at the beginning and was psyched. I made it three bolts up before realizing there were no more bolts and had to back clean to the ground. Turns out the route was not in the guide and was probably not even a finished route. Stepping farther right I got on a sweet looking .11c called young Lions. Easy start on jugs lead to a slightly overhung wall split perfectly down the middle by a slopey looking vertical seam. I just kept on climbing and clipping. The seam was much better than it looked and the crux was right underneath the chains, a deadpoint to a perfect crimp rail and then a victory jug. I had the best time on this route and I think it was the best route I did all trip. The granite is impeccable. Wonderful moves, no awkwardness, well protected. I could go on and on.


Dom on the last move of Young Lions(5.11c).


Melody on the arete of Bono(5.8)

The rain moved in pretty much on Dom's second go send of Allergic reaction(5.12a) as he was almost blown from the top by strong gusts of wind, we packed up in the ensuing torrential downpour and made our soggy way into the local bar. The rain abated and we headed to the homefront where store bought wood warmed us to the core that night.
The next day we woke to the sounds of a million bird songs and checked out Northrup Canyon(amazing) but decided to start out at Golf Course Rock. A huge granitic slab adjacent to a golf course.
The first route I tried was a .10a and it was out of this fucking world good. No hard moves, all crimps, great movement up a flat slabby face.


Erica on the right, and Meagan on the left. Right (5.10b), left (5.10d).


Dom on the .10a lower right corner, and the expanse of the Golf Course Rock sector.

I climbed two other routes on the slab; a pretty nice but awkward in some places .10b and a really good and hard .10d, both OS and fun ascents. Slab climbing is great because you don't get pumped. Hooray.
The last stop of the day was Northrup Canyon.


The pillar ledge view. We had to climb through a cocaine gullyesque nostril to get to these climbs, and I guess it was worth it.


Dom entering the 'pillar' section of Dr. Ceuse(5.10a)

Dr. Ceuse was a great climb that would be 4 stars if not for the junky and awkward beginning. As soon as you get to the pillar part of the climb the adrenaline kicks in and the exposure is intoxicating. The lichen splattered pillar is sharp as a knife but climbs well and is well protected besides just being a straight up bad ass rock climb. I did the 5.8 slab and the crusty and sketchy .10a before we all headed down back through the nostril and collected an insane amount of wood to burn that night.


Meagan checks the weather from the pillar on Dr. Ceuse(5.10)


Sarah negotiates the corner on a .10a.


Erica leading the 5.8 slab in Northrup Canyon.


The next day would be our last at Banks Lake and we all agreed that Northrup Canyon was the place to go. I started out on an inspiring slab climb that was 14 bolts long! How Homer Got His Groove Back(5.10b) was such an amazing climb even though I broke a small crimp off of it and fell, I finished it up after that and took some photos of Laura on it.


Me tackling the slab on How Homer Got His Groove Back(5.10b), pre-breaking off a hold.


Laura TR's How Homer Got His Groove Back(5.10b).




Okay, the stitching was a little off for this pano but I didn't want to crop out most of the picture. I just couldn't stop snapping pics of this awesome crag. The potential here is amazing. A lot of decent boulders, tons of face climbing, crack climbing, roofs, overhangs, slabs, all on perfect cream/tan/white granite.
Dom and I both ended the day on a .12c called Baptism By Whipper which ascends a really overhung wall on nothing but good incuts. It was a tad on the soft side, just big moves, but really fun to climb. The weather was perfect but instead of climbing more we were all ready to pack up and get on to the next destination.

Post Falls

I'll end my blog quickly now since I have no more eye candy. A full memory card will do that to you. We spent Wednesday at a crag in Idaho just over the border of Washington. Post Falls was a great granite sport crag that has a high concentration of climbs in the 5.8 to 5.11+ range, and a couple of .12's. We did more routes on that day than on any other day, I think Dom had 14, I had 11, and Laura got in 8 or 9. The best of which was a great vertical .10c that had a tricky little roof encounter at the very top which required a high-step and a rock-over. Out of three stars I would give this crag 2.5. It was such enjoyable climbing on friendly rock but it lacked that kind of secluded feel that can be nice to have sometimes, especially when the locals start throwing rocks off the top of the cliffs. It's located in a park that gets a lot of foot traffic and most of the climbs are easy to access from the top to set up TR's. Overall it was a great high volume day and there were some definite stand outs, like McMantle(5.11b), Divine Intervention(5.10b), Jude 24(5.11a) and the aformentioned .10c, plus the 5.8 that we all did at the very end of the day.

Goose Lake

Thursday was our seventh day on, and instead of sticking around Spokane to find out first hand if the weather reports we had been hearing about rain were true, we packed up and headed to a place called Goose Lake which is 20 miles(?) east of Vantage. It's quite an obscure little place located in a nature reserve(which allows hunting, WTF?) and has some great views of native grasslands. The climbing is basalt pillars very much in the same style as the Feathers in Vantage but shorter. Out of three stars I would give this crag 1. The rock is extremely loose and friable in places, and even though the entire crag caters to the grade range of 5.6-5.10a, it might not be a wise choice to go here if you are a beginner and are not good at delineating between 'good/solid' holds from 'bad/friable' holds. That being said, I got on 9 routes from 5.6-5.10d and the majority of them were quite enjoyable, with good movement, technical in places, and powerful in others, plus the setting is very tranquil and beautiful.

Now it is Friday afternoon. My skin feels good and it is nice to re-cap the last weeks events. I'm sure I have left out something, like the dinner we had at Laura's aunt's house, thanks Larry and Diane!! The BBQ was delicious. Or the details of sitting underneath a star ridden sky every night laughing and enjoying good company around a crackling fire. Part of me would love to still be out there trying to find 'the zone', but another part of me is psyched to start my new job on Monday and completely not psyched to get up at 5:45 to do so. Anyway, thanks everyone for making the first big trip of the year a great one. Can't wait to get back out there and seek out some of the crags we didn't go to, there are just too many.

Holes in the Ozone

The 'Crew'.

I don’t have a whole lot to say, and even less time to say it in, so here goes.
The weekend started off great, with a day trip to Little si, and an extra helping of Exit 38 in the same day. I have fallen in love with the bouldery moves of Judgement Day Direct(I’ve decided to call it by it’s real name since I met the creator at Little si), and I had a good re-visiting with the Shocklet link up at Nevermind, which also has very bouldery moves at the crux. Both routes involve making hard moves above the clips which is exhilarating and inspiring at the same time. Greg made leaps and bounds in his climbing confidence and started leading his first routes at 38. Feeling good he also went for the lead of Steep Street but got a little pumped out at the crux. However he managed it clean on TR his second go and I think this will be his first hard lead next time out.
That night was a blur of good and bad karaoke, but always infused with laughter and smiling faces(and some crazy dance moves!)
Sunday was a trip to a new spot, Ozone. This little crag is found skirting the banks of the Columbia River and while the drive felt like it took days, upon arrival the crag was buzzing with people, and even better new routes to feast upon. And feast we did. Jimmy and Dom crushed almost all of the .12a’s(crushed=onisghted or flashed calmly and coolly), while Laura and new friend(to me anyway) Chaz made short work of the long and involved 5.8’s/9’s/and10’s. While I wasn’t thrilled by the rock quality in some spots- the only basalt I’ve really enjoyed climbing on is the stuff at Smith-a lot of the routes were bullet hard basalt and were top notch involving many roofs, crack systems, flat edges and ledges, crimps, slopers, sidepulls, and the whole lot. It was an absolute thrill getting on new routes and I have forgotten what it feels like to visit a new crag and not be totally overwhelmed by volume or felt totally out of place. Ozone is a great crag to hang out, with the exception of the extreme downhill angle found at parts of the trail, and no matter what your skill level, offers several mixed trad/sport routes, strictly sport routes, trad routes, and some kick ass roofs. I can’t wait to go back and get my hands dirty all over again.


Dom tackles a 5.11a with a sweet roof.


The far right side of the Ozone layer.


Laura's silhouette dancing up a 5.9.


Dom flashes The Crumbling(5.12a).


Jimmy at full extension on Stack Face(?)(5.12c).


Jimmy.