Sunday, June 6, 2010
Expanding Capacity
Jimmy sticking the crux move on 'From Russia With Love'(V.9)
Well, I'd hate to make such a bold statement as the one I'm about to make, but:
This might be the last trip to Leavenworth for a few months.
(I'm sure I'll be back out there next weekend!)
Yesterday was a great day to consume beta, and learn the suttle nuances behind a few really good and hard Leavenworth classics. Jimmy and I made great time in the morning stopping first at the Sword boulders. I hadn't been to this particular cluster of granite giants in quite some time (year and half?).
The shade was amazing! Perfect temps dodging the sun. We did some laps on the slab problems (all excellent lines) and Jimmy made a repeat of the sword and I made a repeat of the Sword down climb (I think it's harder that way). We flailed on the reachy moves of Zorro, and Jimmy made a repeat flash go of Coles Corner while I made some good progress (squeeze with the legs!!).
We then turned our attention to The Tree Problem and I managed to flash it to the victory crack but missed all the good spots and fell off. I sent later with a good heel hook and nice move to the tree, topping it off with some pull ups (grr).
I was actually really pleased with the Tree Problem and I think it would be a pretty classic little line if it had a 'real' top out.
We left The Sword boulders and headed back down canyon to set up shop at the Bond boulder. A sweet overhung wave of granite with a couple stout lines. We got to work on From Russia With Love (FRWL) and found out we are both really good at 'almost' sending it. Jimmy took some amazing spills off the crux move to the lip. Here is an action sequence of what our attempts looked like:
We will definitely be back when the sun isn't blaring down on the crux lip.
The day was capped off by a couple nice sends by Jimmy. A quick first go redpoint of Geronimo. And then a powerful send of Yoda with some new foot beta I uncovered. Unfortunately my beta only worked for Jimmy and I left Mt. Home empty handed but full of wisdom about how to send next time.
We had originally planned on leaving at 7, but the heat coupled with our success and thin skin was enough to drive us away by 5.
I ended the day with a nice Rainier session on a sweet woody a few WRG friends hooked up in their garage. Thanks Boone and Steve, nice 45!!
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